A 5-Day One-to-One Creative JourneyThere’s something incredibly powerful about giving someone the time, space, and support to bring an idea to life, especially when it’s something they never thought they could achieve. My one-to-one, five-day course is designed to do exactly that: take a spark of inspiration and turn it into a finished piece, crafted with skill, confidence, and pride. So how do you go from a simple idea to a finished, handcrafted piece in just five days?
For some, the best route is to choose from one of my pre-existing designs, projects I know can be completed to a high standard within the timeframe. For others, it’s about adapting their own vision into something achievable without compromising the essence of what they want to create. This stage is collaborative, honest, and always focused on setting the student up for success. Planning the Experience How is a five-day creative course planned? Once the project is agreed, we confirm the course length and dates. This is guided entirely by the scope of the work and the student’s availability. With a clear plan in place, the real preparation begins - on my side.
The Five-Day ImmersionWhat is a five-day one-to-one creative experience like? When the course begins, it becomes a fully immersive, one-to-one experience. Each student receives:
For complete beginners, this level of support transforms what might feel impossible into something entirely achievable. The Outcome: More Than Just a Finished Piece
Why This Process Works The success of these five-day projects isn’t accidental; it’s built into the structure:
If you’ve ever had an idea sitting quietly in the back of your mind, waiting for the right moment - this might be it. With the right support, even the most ambitious projects can begin with just five days. Contact me here for more information Set in my workshop in Coverack, Cornwall, my one-to-one woodworking courses are more than just an intensive 5-day woodworking course, it’s a relaxed, personal experience rooted in traditional woodworking skills. While the teaching is professional and focused, the atmosphere is informal and welcoming, often described by past students as a Cornish woodworking retreat. You’ll spend your days learning through personalised woodworking tuition, with breaks to enjoy home-cooked lunches in our family kitchen or out in the garden when the weather allows. Ideal for beginners and those looking to develop their skills, it’s an immersive woodworking course that combines high-quality teaching with a warm, authentic setting.
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This is the first of a series of ramblings on the art of sharpening hand tools. There are many different methods and it is important to try all these until you find one that suits you. This blog will cover the methods that I find successful and to best explain the reasons why I mainly practise free hand sharpening, without the use of honing guides. If there’s one question I’m asked more than any other, it’s this: |
| The wet stone grinder is an excellent machine that allows accurate grinding of tool bevels. The diameter of the wheel naturally creates a shallow hollow. This hollow makes honing faster and more accurate. But common mistakes include;
*This should not be confused with a hollow ground bevel. |  Wet stone grinder |
Understanding Angles: 25° vs 30°
To gain a basic understanding of bevel angles, the steeper the angle the more durable the cutting edge. A very shallow angle will produce an extremely sharp edge but will be weaker and wear more quickly. I suppose what we are looking for is a compromise between sharpness and strength which will vary depending on the work being carried out and the wood type.
While a common setup is a 25° primary grind with a 30° honing angle, I am going to explain grinding and honing at 25 degrees when using the wet stone grinder.
The approach for honing is different if you have a flat ground bevel. A secondary honing angle is required to avoid having to polish the entire bevel.
With a hollow grind, a secondary honing angle is not required. You only have two small contact points at the front and back of the bevel. This means that you're honing a minimal amount of steel. It is both quick and accurate as it allows you to maintain a consistent angle during honing. Many grinding angles are workable but 25 degrees is ideal. It allows many sharpenings and enables a secondary bevel at up to 30° when the original 25° bevel is worn out. i.e. the hollow has become minimal.
This setup gives a consistently sharp edge with good retention. It also lets you add a secondary bevel later if needed. If dealing with difficult grain and density of timber, a secondary bevel, or a steeper grinding angle might be needed.
While a common setup is a 25° primary grind with a 30° honing angle, I am going to explain grinding and honing at 25 degrees when using the wet stone grinder.
The approach for honing is different if you have a flat ground bevel. A secondary honing angle is required to avoid having to polish the entire bevel.
With a hollow grind, a secondary honing angle is not required. You only have two small contact points at the front and back of the bevel. This means that you're honing a minimal amount of steel. It is both quick and accurate as it allows you to maintain a consistent angle during honing. Many grinding angles are workable but 25 degrees is ideal. It allows many sharpenings and enables a secondary bevel at up to 30° when the original 25° bevel is worn out. i.e. the hollow has become minimal.
This setup gives a consistently sharp edge with good retention. It also lets you add a secondary bevel later if needed. If dealing with difficult grain and density of timber, a secondary bevel, or a steeper grinding angle might be needed.
Note the polish on the top and bottom of the bevel.
Honing and Stropping
- Refines the cutting edge using stones and brings it to working sharpness. Techniques like the figure of eight help maintain the correct angle when adding a secondary bevel.**
- Using leather for stropping.
- Polishes the edge.
- Removes any remaining burrs.
- Leaves a razor sharp finish.
My favourite chisels
Whetstones and Alternatives
Whetstones work best when soaked in water. Coarser stones, like 1000 grit, may need up to 15 minutes if dry. Finer stones, such as 6000–10,000 grit, soak faster and hold water on the surface.
Other sharpening options include diamond stones**, oil stones**, and the Scary Sharp system** (glass plus abrasive films). Each method has strengths. The most important factor is consistency.
Other sharpening options include diamond stones**, oil stones**, and the Scary Sharp system** (glass plus abrasive films). Each method has strengths. The most important factor is consistency.
Conclusion: Learn the Basics, Master the Craft
Sharp tools change everything. They make woodworking calmer, cleaner, and more satisfying. Mastering sharpening isn’t optional — it separates frustration from fine furniture making.
To learn more and improve your skills, visit: 👉 courses
To watch the accompanying video visit my 👉 YouTube channel
To learn more and improve your skills, visit: 👉 courses
To watch the accompanying video visit my 👉 YouTube channel
** These techniques will be covered at a later date
This blog covers how to sharpen chisels, how to sharpen plane blades and woodworking sharpening basics, with Richard Buckingham Furniture & Courses.
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Richard will be writing tool reviews, posting video tutorials, showing off his latest commissions and sharing info on up and coming courses.....
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Richard will be writing tool reviews, posting video tutorials, showing off his latest commissions and sharing info on up and coming courses.....
Watch this space!
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