From The Workbench

How to Sharpen Chisels and Planes: Sharp Tools, Better Woodwork.

26/1/2026

This is the first of a series of ramblings on the art of sharpening hand tools. There are many different methods and it is important to try all these until you find one that suits you. This blog will cover the methods that I find successful and to best explain the reasons why I mainly practise free hand sharpening, without the use of honing guides.

If there’s one question I’m asked more than any other, it’s this:
What’s the best way to learn woodworking?
My answer is always the same:
Learn the basics first.

All forms of woodworking share one foundation: mastering hand tools. At the centre of this skill is sharpening. Without sharp tools, work becomes harder, slower, and far less enjoyable. Clean joints and smooth surfaces come from sharp edges, not force.

Why Sharpening Matters

Sharp tools cut cleanly and accurately. Dull tools tear wood fibres, cause fatigue, and lead to frustration. Most woodworking problems come from poor tool setup or blunt edges. When your tools are sharp, your confidence grows, and your work becomes more consistent.
If your joints aren’t clean or surfaces aren’t smooth, it’s often not your technique — it’s your edge.

The Core Tools We’re Talking About

Chisels – for joints, paring, and fine detail
Planes – for smoothing, truing, and thicknessing timber
Spokeshaves – for shaping curves and profiles
Wet stone grinder – for controlled hollow grinding
Whetstones – for honing and polishing
Leather strop – for final edge refinement

The core tools

Sharpening Basics: Grinding and Honing

The wet stone grinder is an excellent machine that allows accurate grinding of tool bevels. The diameter of the wheel naturally creates a shallow hollow. This hollow makes honing faster and more accurate. But common mistakes include;

Grinding at an angle.
Applying the wrong bevel.
Hollow grinding* across the width of a blade (Planes).

*This should not be confused with a hollow ground bevel.

Wet stone grinder

Understanding Angles: 25° vs 30°

To gain a basic understanding of bevel angles, the steeper the angle the more durable the cutting edge. A very shallow angle will produce an extremely sharp edge but will be weaker and wear more quickly. I suppose what we are looking for is a compromise between sharpness and strength which will vary depending on the work being carried out and the wood type.

While a common setup is a 25° primary grind with a 30° honing angle, I am going to explain grinding and honing at 25 degrees when using the wet stone grinder.
The approach for honing is different if you have a flat ground bevel. A secondary honing angle is required to avoid having to polish the entire bevel.

With a hollow grind, a secondary honing angle is not required. You only have two small contact points at the front and back of the bevel. This means that you're honing a minimal amount of steel. It is both quick and accurate as it allows you to maintain a consistent angle during honing. Many grinding angles are workable but 25 degrees is ideal. It allows many sharpenings and enables a secondary bevel at up to 30° when the original 25° bevel is worn out. i.e. the hollow has become minimal.
This setup gives a consistently sharp edge with good retention. It also lets you add a secondary bevel later if needed. If dealing with difficult grain and density of timber, a secondary bevel, or a steeper grinding angle might be needed.

Image close up of a chisels cutting edge showing the polish on the top and bottom of the bevel edge

Note the polish on the top and bottom of the bevel.

Honing and Stropping

Refines the cutting edge using stones and brings it to working sharpness. Techniques like the figure of eight help maintain the correct angle when adding a secondary bevel.**
Using leather for stropping.

Polishes the edge.
Removes any remaining burrs.
Leaves a razor sharp finish.

A pair of chisels sharpened and ready to work

My favourite chisels

Whetstones and Alternatives

Whetstones work best when soaked in water. Coarser stones, like 1000 grit, may need up to 15 minutes if dry. Finer stones, such as 6000–10,000 grit, soak faster and hold water on the surface.
Other sharpening options include diamond stones**, oil stones**, and the Scary Sharp system** (glass plus abrasive films). Each method has strengths. The most important factor is consistency.

Conclusion: Learn the Basics, Master the Craft

Sharp tools change everything. They make woodworking calmer, cleaner, and more satisfying. Mastering sharpening isn’t optional — it separates frustration from fine furniture making.

To learn more and improve your skills, visit: 👉 courses

To watch the accompanying video visit my 👉 YouTube channel

** These techniques will be covered at a later date

This blog covers how to sharpen chisels, how to sharpen plane blades and woodworking sharpening basics, with Richard Buckingham Furniture & Courses.

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